Deep Cove to Milford

Here is the story so far - there are some gaps with the photos as it takes so long to load them and possibly there are bits of the text that i was going to going back to add more detail but i need to get this loaded. 28/04 - Thursday.  We are in Te Anau for a couple of nights and heading back to Milford Sound in the morning.  From there we will wait for a good weather pattern to take us up the west coast to Takaka or Nelson or Wellington.  All for now. K and P

Wednesday 06/04 - Sunday 10/04/11
After 4 nights at Deep Cove we have moved on to Crooked Arm. Our stay in Deep Cove was a chance to get some provisions sent in from Te Anau. Deep Cove is where the tailrace of the tunnel exits which originates in Lake Manapouri and was constructed for the production of electricity mainly to power the Te Wai aluminium smelter in Bluff. Construction started on the project about 1964 and a road was built from West Arm on Lake Manapouri over the Wilmot Pass and down to Deep Cove. This is still the only access today with everything being boated or barged over Lake Manapouri to West Arm and then over the pass. It is quite a tourist attraction and very interesting to go through the power station deep underground accessed by a spiral road two kilometres down to the machine hall where the turbines are located.

At Deep Cove there is a hostel run by a trust and a large number of school groups use this facility. As well as the hostel for school groups there is also a new building with accommodation for about 50 people and can be rented for pretty reasonable sums. Billy, the hostel manager, is a wealth of information and wonderfully friendly and with true southern hospitality invited us up for dinner one night. We thoroughly enjoyed his delicious venison stew followed by dessert with ice cream so it was quite a treat. We also took advantage of the showers and enjoyed a really long hot shower. Our shower on the boat is good and its no problem to get water but we still tend to have quick showers so as not to drain batteries etc.

We decided against going over to Te Anau ourselves when we found out the cost. Real Journeys pretty much have a monopoly on the tourist trade here and while they would take us over the pass and across the lake to Manapouri the one way cost was $75 plus another $15 for the bus to Te Anau. We would have had to stay overnight so we figured for the two of us all up with accommodation and a meal the cost would be upwards of $500 and we can get a fair bit of diesel for that! We did however send in an order for groceries and when these arrived back it was like Christmas unpacking the boxes of goodies – nice to have some fresh vegetables. Our other reason for being here was to see if there was any chance of getting our radar fixed which has been causing a few problems. Unfortunately the technician in Invercargill was away however the diagnosis from our description is that it is probably the magnetron in the unit and it definitely needs a technician to look at it. We will just have to do without it and maybe get it looked at in Nelson or Wellington when we get up that way again.

We took a walk to the Helena Falls and the portal of the tunnels from the hydro electric scheme.
Leaving Deep Cove we motored down Hall Arm. At the entrance Commander Peak rises straight up from the water and peak after peak unfolds in front of us as we proceed down the narrowish waterway. Quite spectacular. We returned to the main channel and went past the Browne Falls which cascade from a lake at about 800m elevation down wide swathes of rock.

In crooked Arm the signs of glaciation are very evident with huge hanging valleys and rock faces where you can see the striations scored into huge rock faces where ice has carved a path.

Monday 11/04/2011

Showers appear to be clearing but there must have been quite a bit of rain in the night as the dinghy was fairly deep in water and took a bit of bailing out before we headed ashore. There is a track that runs from this arm to the head of Dagg Sound which on the chart appears to be an easy walk along the flat. We donned our boots and wet weather gear and were hoping to keep our boots clean and dry – what a silly notion.

Just after leaving the dinghy on the flats covered in OiOi (a type of fine reed) and tramping upstream we saw that the track crossed to the other side of the stream. Determined to keep our boots (and feet) dry we built a bridge of driftwood and stones. I don’t think the boy scouts or girl guides would have given us any badges as we still got out feet wet.

Onwards into the beautiful forest with trees dripping with moss and lichens and a good path that followed alongside and sometimes crossed over and back across the stream – more foot wetting slipping off logs or stones as we attempted to get across without landing in the water. Not that we should have bothered because before long the path became a stream which we sloshed our way along. In spite of this we enjoyed the walk and the forest around us was magnificent with huge trees, pretty streams and so much moss and ferns and lichen on the trees that sound is deadened apart from the occasional shrill trilling of a bird. Some of the moss on logs or tree trunks forms perfect rounds that anyone into topiary would love.

After about three quarters of an hour we came out of the trees into an open area which was quite a contrast to the closed in area of trees. High above a waterfall tumbled down from rocky ledges and down a large slip area with boulders and small rocks where small streams found their way down in numerous channels amongst the rocks and under logs. All about the ground was covered in tiny plants, some with tiny red berries, other with purplish pink berries, white mossy type lichens with brown spores at the tips and miniature tufts of flax type grasses.

 


We climbed up the slope until we could see the head waters of Dagg Sound below us but as the going was tough on the rocks that slipped and slid underfoot we opted to return home.

We reached the dinghy and were mobbed by sandflies – they seemed to be pretty bad in this particular spot and rowing back to the boat was a bit of a mission as we kept swatting around our heads – our particular brand of repellent didn’t seem to faze these guys!

We then up anchored and headed back up Crooked Arm and out into Malaspina Reach which opens out and seems very light and wide after the dark looming peaks in Deep Cove, Hall and Crooked Arms.

Precipice Cove (Mcdonell Island) – a very pretty anchorage with a stern line in place. Incredible reflections all around with trees and grassy areas making the area seem almost park like.

Just watched Navigator (Real Journeys charter vessel) go past to its mooring at the head of Precipice Cove – lit up pretty well and casts a good reflection but the minute it passed beyond the headland all was pitch black again.

Tuesday 12/04/2011

We reluctantly moved out of Precipice Cove and headed for the end of Gaer Arm. This is another stunning bit of scenery.

Jim and Rejane had been here the night before and came over for a cup of tea. We were just seeing them off when a very fast jet engined RIB came speeding up with about 6 commando like clad characters. They looked pretty intimidating but turns out it’s the Fisheries officers. They work hand in hand with the Navy (our navy has to have something to do) and obviously like the element of surprise when boarding boats to inspect for illegal catch as they had the Navy ship out of sight round the corner. Two of them came aboard Gunner and the boat zoomed off to check out Dingo. First impressions are that their get up and general appearance is a little over the top and intimidating with helmets and full face visors, all dressed in black and what looks like body armour, however they were very polite and pleasant and at the end of the day are doing a good job.

After they had checked us out and departed in a roar, we took to the dinghy and headed up the Camelot River which is very beautiful with crystal clear water. Saw a flounder. Went ashore lots of sign of deer.

Wednesday 13/04/2011
Hunters came in early and were dropped off so that put paid to our plans to go exploring up river – don’t fancy getting our heads blown off.

Dolphins feeding just out from where we were anchored and then had them visit us as we moved up the sound.

Stopped at the Blanket bay hotel to fill up with water and burn our rubbish.   This is an area on a small island used by the fishermen and at some time in the past was a place where you could purchase fuel and get dive tanks filled but nowadays there are no services.

Fished on the way up Thomson sound. Caught a big seven gill shark 1.5 – 2 metres. Had to cut the line. Couple of nice big blue cod for dinner.

On to Deas Cove for the night. Hunters in here too.

Thursday 14/04/2011

Wind got up a bit in the night as forecast.

Blew fairly hard most of the day but no rain. We had a brief trip ashore to go and have a look at the DoC hut. Some of the crew of Maggie Rose from Takaka area were there.

Friday 15/04/2011

We were awake around 7 and got up and ready to leave. No wind and a bit of sunshine looked promising for a good cruise up to Nancy Sound which is only a short distance of about 4 miles.

It was all happening out there making for a great day with seals jumping, dolphins leaping and spinning, mollymawks gliding and skimming the water.

The entrance to Nancy Sound is quite narrow with rocks to watch out for but no problem on such a fine day. We went a short way down the sound but decided not to go the whole length of the sound as we need to get on towards Milford. We did however try a spot of fishing outside the entrance where Pete caught the first of five sharks all in the 1.5 – 2 metre range. They are really hard work to reel in and take a lot of effort to get to a position where they can be unhooked without getting gnashed by their several rows of needle sharp teeth. A gaff and a pair of strong pliers is what we used to get the hooks out. Sounds a bit gruesome but all of them swum off at high speed when released and should recover. Consequently only one good sized cod for the pan today!

We carried on up the coast for another 4 miles to Charles Sound and after a bit more fishing (sharks again) we gave up and travelled to the top of Emelius Arm for the night. We are anchored alongside a high waterfall and the night is still and perfect.

Saturday 16/04/2011
A beautiful sunny morning to go exploring up the Irene River. At the end of this arm as in many others similar the seabed rises sharply from very deep water to the shallow mud and sandbanks that congregate at the mouth of the river. Large numbers of huge trees rear out of the water and can stop you in your tracks if you happen to hit one of these submerged monsters. The water however was crystal clear although with the morning sun in our eyes it made it hard to see under the water until it was too late to avoid a crash. We motored up river past banks of oi-oi, oyster catchers and seagulls perched on logs and then huge rimu and beech trees with their feet in the water. It was the most incredible ride up this river with reflections that seemed to go on forever and the mirrored scenes seemed almost more perfect than the reality. Peering down into the dark reflections of trees and sky felt like looking into infinity and at times the water was silky smooth like quicksilver. It reminded me of school days when we were allowed to play with a blob of mercury that would shimmer and slide.

We got about 4 kilometres upstream before the water became too shallow and strewn with logs to continue further. Just south of this point there was a huge waterfall emptying into a small tributary overhung with trees that ran into the Irene river. We were able to row up almost to the falls which were quite spectacular dropping into a deep pool. Quite a wind was generated by the falling water and as the morning sun had not yet penetrated into these steep areas it was icy cold. We retreated to the other side of the river where the sun was creating steaming trees and banks and enjoyed the warmth on our backs before heading downstream.

Back at the boat it was still in the shade and the decks were still wet with a heavy dew and as there were strong south westerly winds forecast we moved off to the other arm of Charles Sound. This is named Gold Arm and halfway down there are a couple of islands. Catherine Island and a small island adjacent form a great little sheltered anchorage and there is a heavy hawser strung between the two which means that it is not necessary to put an anchor down, we simply tied up fore and aft to the hawser. Before we did this we went for a motor down to the head of this arm and suddenly the cry went up from Pete – deer!

High up on an area clear of trees we could see four Red deer. Two does were on the upper slope and below them a young spiker and a large stag. This is the one that interested Pete and we took Gunner in as close as possible to the bottom of the slide. He soon had his gun out and was checking out the range however at about 300 metres and without telescopic sights it would have been a lucky shot to drop one but he let off a few shots to test it. The stag did a couple of skips which might suggest the bullets were landing close to the target but it didn’t appear to faze them and they kept on grazing. With washing flapping in the breeze on the rigging, they knew we were there but being disguised by the boat and the wind taking our scent away from them they were in no hurry to depart and continued grazing for a half hour or so. At the risk of not getting a clean shot and possibly injuring one of the animals we decided to let them carry on their peaceful life in paradise!

Sunday 17/04/2011

We had a fairly lazy day with periods of intermittent rain and low cloud. Another front was passing through and we decided to spend another day at Catherine Island and see if the forecast for the following day would be better for moving up the coast.

While Pete did some odd jobs around the boat I went for a row around the small islands where we were anchored, enjoying the bird song and the crystal clear water allowing views deep down the smooth rock walls which went straight down to the dark below.

Highlight of the day was our dinner of venison back steaks which we had been maturing for the past fourteen days. It was very tender and delicious along with roast potatoes, kumara and butternut.


Don't give the skipper cheek - this is where you land up!

 Monday 18/04/2011
Forecast was for southwesterlies which was fine for going up the coast but we weren’t sure what the swell would be like – 4 or 5 metres could be pretty uncomfortable if it was close together but we headed out to have a look as it was only a short hop of 3 ½ miles to Caswell Sound. Once out at the Sound entrance the day was looking pretty good and the sea while having a bit of a swell looked fairly benign. We headed out and decided not to stop at Caswell but continue on to George Sound a further 4 ½ miles.

Entering into George Sound hillsides on the outer coasts are covered with dense short bush and trees and it is easy to see the prevailing wind has a huge effect on these hills with the trees all leaning into the hills. The rocks that come down to the waters edge appear much flatter and in slabs compared to Charles Sound where they were more rounded like big boulders. Further up the sound steep hills were scored with ravines dropping in straight lines through the bush creating a sculptured look on the hillsides.

On our way down George Sound we had a look at Anchorage Cove and the Whitewater River valley before heading for the head of the Sound where the Alice Falls cascade into a small inlet.

There is a stern rope laid across the inlet and up to six boats could anchor and tie back on to the sternline. You need to watch out here because the volume of water from the Falls tends to push boats sideways across the inlet if you are not quick getting the sternline attached. We saw there was a yacht already there but as the cove was out of the sun we opted to anchor in the bay so we could get wet washing dried out.

Tuesday 19/04/2011
Heavy rain all day.

Listening to fishermen on the radio can be quite amusing at times – language is certainly colourful with one guy using the f-word in between every second word.

Wednesday 20/04/2011
Rain has stopped and sun is shining – perfect day for a hike up the George Sound track which starts at a lake out of Te Anau and finishes at the George Sound hut. While we were tying up the dinghy at the hut a couple came over from the yacht that was moored near the Alice Falls. Paul and Caroline are from Holland and have been cruising for about 5 years. As the weather was good we arranged to meet up with them later and go walking to make the most of the good weather. We took off up the track to Lake Katherine while they went looking for a track up to the top of Lake Alice at the top of the falls.
The track started out into the forest alongside a river we could hear rushing down a nearby ravine. After all the rain of the previous day it was clear that our boots wouldn’t stay dry for too long especially as the swollen streams had often covered the track. Most of these tracks are not formed in any way but the route is marked with orange triangles nailed to trees. There are many sections which are no more than markers up a stream bed or rock slide. We continued along the path, having to clamber over an area where a very big beech tree had come down and blocked the way, until we came to a three wire bridge across the river. We went across one at a time and continued up the other side of the river for a few kilometres gradually climbing up the sides of the valley. The bush here is slightly different to previous sounds in that there were a lot more pungas (tree ferns) and a lot of varying sized Lancewoods. Also a lot of what I think are Coprosmas covered in ruby like translucent red berries. After about 1 ¾ hours and the going getting pretty tough over boulders and tree roots we came out at the lake nestled below huge peaks. A large slip made a white scar down into the water and all around the mountains were reflected in the translucent tannin coloured water.

After a short stop for a snack we headed back down to the boat for a well earned shower before heading over to visit Paul and Caroline on Giebateau. This couple have been cruising for about 5 years and are certainly not your average cruisers. They shun the “standard” cruising routes and areas and head for some pretty challenging and remote areas. Their yacht is a 41’ Farr designed Beneteau racing hull. They left Holland and headed north nearly to the north pole to Spitsbergen at 79 degrees and some minutes North before they reached solid ice and were unable to go further. From here they sailed around the top of the UK and down the Irish Sea, stopping off at the Gambia on the bulge of Africa, before crossing the Altantic to Brazil and then making their way south to the Falkland Islands, Antarctica and Patagonia. From here they headed west across the Pacific visiting remote islands like Robinson Crusoe island and Easter Island and touching on the southern parts of the Tuamotas before crossing to New Zealand. You can visit their blogsite which I imagine will make much more interesting reading than this one!! www.giebateau.web-log.nl

Thursday 21/04/2011
Very cold this morning – last night the temperature outside was about 5 degrees and it is not warming up much today.
We went over to the Alice Falls to investigate a climb up to the top of the falls by a route which was a dry(ish) ravine running down alongside the main Alice Falls however we had left our hiking boots back at the boat as they were sopping wet from the previous day and we looking at the steep, slime covered rocks we knew we wouldn’t get far in our normal sneakers. We opted instead to take Gunner down to the South West Arm for a look for another anchorage for the night.
We tucked ourselves in behind a small headland where a stream emptied into the head of the cove, dropping the anchor and picking up the stern line that was in place.

We did have a little trouble getting the anchor to set as the bottom seems to be made up of loose boulders from the shallow bank that extends out from the stream bed. Unfortunately the sandflies were extreme here and driving us crazy as we set the anchor and we were glad to get inside and close the doors and then exterminate the buggers with a quick burst of flyspray.
Eventually though we decided we should get out and wash our socks and pants which were still wet and muddy from our walk the day before. We slathered on the bug repellent, covered ourselves from head to toe in clothing and put netting over our faces.

Correct aspect of rhis photo is turned 90 degrees.

We took our washing to the stream nearby and then went for a look around the bay in the dinghy. There is a rock with some interesting markings and with dead calm water and turned sideways the reflection formed a strange picture that looked like some weird alien or perhaps Chinese figurine.



Friday 22/04/2011
Once again the rain is here, starting during the night and not stopping since. By early afternoon the mountaintops had disappeared into mist and waterfalls appeared all down their flanks, streams become cascading rivers and everything turns to tonal shades of white and black.

Definitely a day for staying inside and boredom must have been setting in as Pete decided to try his hand at making biscuits. They turned out pretty good. This is the trouble with days like this – we stay inside and eat – just as well we had a good walk the day before.

Predictions are for 45 knots of Nor’easterlies tonight which is more than there has been for the last 24 hours so hopefully we are okay in this reasonably sheltered anchorage. Always a bit worrying though as we are dependent on anchors holding and stern lines staying fast.
Just found out that it is Easter! We are out of touch!

Saturday 23/04/2011
Time for a move. Rain is still on and off but the wind has abated so we headed up towards Anchorage Cove. On the way we decided that we would get a weather forecast and then see what the swell looked like at the entrance to the Sound and decide if we could move up the coast. The forecast indicated NW20 with a change to SW15 during the day and it would deteriorate for the next few days after that so we decided to head out and aim for Milford Sound with the option of going into Bligh Sound if it was rough.

Once we were out of the Sound all was good and although the wind and swell remained norwesterly it wasn’t bad and after an hour we passed Bligh entrance and decided to keep going for Milford.
Only thing was that we hadn’t left George until about 2pm so after four hours up the coast we reached Milford as the sun was setting. The whole day had been pretty gloomy with low cloud shrouding the coast and we were not able to see much all the way up.
Not far from the entrance there is Anita Bay which is sometimes used as an anchorage and there is a mooring with a stern line. Our preference was to stay here rather than journeying down the sound in the dark however in the gloom we were unable to find the mooring buoy amongst all the crayfish pots and we didn’t fancy anchoring as there was a big swell rolling into the bay and crashing on the shore.
Our only option at this point was to continue up to Deepwater Basin at the head of the Sound as there are no other anchorages, the water being too deep to anchor.
The night was pitch black, no moon and the mountains loomed high and steep sided all around us. With the radar not being much help we relied on the chart plotter to keep us on track but it was pretty tense feeling our way in the dark. After a slow 2 hour trip down the sound we could see the lights at the head and the flashing white and red at the entrance to the channel to Deepwater Basin which was a welcome relief although getting down the channel was pretty tense as well as there are only a couple of port and starboard markers and these are not lit.
We inched our way down the channel trying to judge where the centre was as on both sides the area dries out with mudbanks.
Seems like the fishing boats that generally would be the only ones silly enough to come in in the dark have huge 400watt lights that light up then entire sound so they don’t worry that the channel markers are not lit.
Once into the basin we headed over to some lights where we could see the fishing boats tied up and found an empty berth.

Sunday 24/04/2011
Woke up to the wonder of Milford Sound. It is incredibly beautiful with amazing peaks surrounding the basin, most of them not under about 1400metres high with others rising over 2000 metres.

More on Milford later.

Milford

Hi All

We have arrived safe and sound in Milford.  Once again no cell phone coverage here and limited for internet.  We may take a bus to Te Anau tomorrow and will put more info on the blog then.

Happy Easter
Kate and Pete

Fiordland

Friday 8th April

Hello again – we are in Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound where we are able to get a bit of internet airtime so here is an update on what we have been doing for the past month.  Its probably a bit longwinded and having trouble loading photos and running out of time so will put morephotos on some other time..  We will be going from here in a day or so and our next area for communication will be in Milford Sound so look forward to hearing from anyone by email or on here.

Bluff - Preservation Inlet

Tuesday 08/03/11

We left Bluff around 530am in the pitch dark and cautiously threaded our way out through the red and  green markers into a sloppy sea.  The day was long and uncomfortable with 20 knots of Southwesterly wind and 2-3 metre swells and grey and overcast.  The southern coast of the South Island became interesting when we approached the great peaks of the Hump Ridge.  Layers upon layers of black, blue and purple mountain ridges bruised the skyline, dark and mysterious with their secrets and old knowledge of times past.   Parts of these ranges would be some of the most isolated and remote places of the world.  The steep sides of the hills at Prices Point formed a frame for the shower of rain and rays of sunlight streaking through the dark clouds while in the foreground the mollymawks glide gracefully by accompanied at times by big flocks of sooty shearwaters skimming the waves.

Puysegur Point came into sight at last and after tense consulting of charts and rocks we found our way into Otago’s Retreat, a narrow passage between Coal Island and the mainland and into the calm waters of Preservation Inlet. The 1000 metre high peaks of Treble Mountain and Bald peaks form a magnificent backdrop to the lower bushclad hills all around. 

The charts show unsurveyed areas but the dangers were mostly quite visible and we were soon happily anchored in Kisbee Bay. Cemetery Island at the north end of Kisbee Bay is close to the mainland and forms a small bay.  We anchored and picked up a stern line that was in place.  Then the sandfly invasion started.  Welcome to the fiords…

Wednesday 09/03/11

Needed a bit of a sleep in after the long day getting here so it was late morning before we were taking note of our surroundings and the lovely anchorage we were in.  I was looking towards the rocky beach and heard a strange sound and then saw a movement.  A huge grey boulder was moving, slowly humping itself towards the water.  Hippopotamus – no, but an enormous elephant seal that proceeded to huff and puff and blow water until it sank under the water.  We followed its progress as it would spout water now and again and it slowly came to a rocky area near the boat and lay still.  Anyone would quite easily mistake it for a rock if they had not seen it move.  When it lifted its head out the water we could see its trunk like nose and its body was maybe 2 metres in length.  Eventually it moved slowly out into the bay where the only indication was the occasional spout of water.

We went over to the island, looking out carefully for other elephant seals, and found the wooden post and plaque that marked the grave of William Docherty, a prospector that was buried on the island in 1896.  We then took the boat back down Otago’s Retreat and anchored in a small bay in the lee of Coal Island and took the dinghy across to the landing area where the track to the Puysegur Point lighthouse starts from.

Before we took off a yacht came over to say hello.  They were about to head out to Bluff having come down the west coast and spent some time in the fiords.  After a chat they asked if we wanted a couple of crayfish as they had plenty and were quite tired of them!  As we haven’t had any crays since the Marlborough Sounds we were most grateful.

The walk to the lighthouse took about an hour there and half an hour back at a fast pace as it was getting a bit late in the day.  The track is the old route that was used to supply the settlement at the Point in the days when the light was manned and was easy walking.  At the point it was clear that the Northerly wind was picking up and as it was cold and blustery we didn’t hang around for long.  

On our way up the inlet to find an anchorage, a fishing boat, that was nearby came racing over to us and asked if wanted some crayfish.  We thanked them but declined the offer as we already had two.  Maybe at this rate we won’t have to go diving for them ourselves!

We found the spot shown in the cruising guide at the start of Isthmus Sound and dropped the anchor and put out a stern line.  Pete took this ashore in the dinghy and while trying to row back was acting rather strangely, waving his arms and batting at his face and head.  The sandflies were eating him alive, getting in his eyes, nose and mouth.  Luckily they weren’t quite so bad at the boat but we still had to have citronella candles burning and the doors closed to keep them at bay.

Thursday 10/03/11

The wind started blowing in the night and has been gusting through the day from the north and northwest at about 35 knots.  Out in the sound the water is covered in whitecaps and showers and squalls keep blasting the boat.  The plan to go by dinghy up the sound to look at the Tarawera Smelter site has been put on hold till the wind dies down.  The high peak named Forgotten Peak, over 1000 metres high can be seen behind the lower hills of the tree covered peninsula that separates Isthmus Sound and Long Sound. 

After a full morning of waiting for each gust to break the anchor free or for the stern line to break – either of which would have quickly put the boat on to the rocks close at hand, we decided to re-anchor in the cove.  We moved up to an area that seemed more sheltered from the gusts and dropped the anchor – once, twice, three times before we got it right.  Either it did not hold or we found that we were too close to the shore for the amount of rope that we needed to let out or it just didn’t feel right.  So that was our exercise for the day after which we settled down to read a bit more and have a crayfish for dinner.

Friday 11/03/11

The wind eventually died down during the night and produced a misty start to the morning and we went to look at the top end of the Isthmus Sound.  Huge slabs of rock with trees hanging out of the rock and large overhangs produced some astounding pictures.  We retraced our track and on the way into Long Sound saw the large luxury yacht, Itasca which we have seen in Auckland over the past couple of years.

After looking for deer in Revolver Bay with its steep bush clad sides we carried on up Long Sound poking into the shore to look at waterfalls dropping out of the trees. 

Jane Coves was beautiful and cosy but too shallow for us to anchor so we went round the small islets and dropped our anchor in Lady Bay and took a stern line ashore and went for a walk in the bush

On the other side of this area is Isthmus Sound where we had earlier come from.  We ended the day with crayfish again sitting looking up Long Sound with a magnificent view of three huge peaks.

Saturday 12/03/11

We heard about the huge earthquake in Japan last night which sounds horrendous.  With a Tsunami warning out for New Zealand coastal waters we thought it best to move out from our anchorage into deeper water.  It was still early morning and the sun was beginning to light the high peaks and mist was ribbonning in and out between the peaks.  In Last Cove we watched the reflections in the still black water at times finding it hard to discern where reality stopped and the reflections started.  The absolute stillness and quietness of this area is astounding and breathtaking. 

We moved on into the middle of the Sound where the depth drops to over 360 metres.  Here there were no sandflies to bother us and we cut the engine and ate breakfast surrounded by this awesome scenery.

A bit further up the Sound Pete decided that he really wanted to put the nose of the boat under a waterfall and so we slowly edged up to a steep sided cliff with a small waterfall dropping into the water.  The rock wall drops straight down into the water and so we were able to get the anchor under the waterfall and wash the mud off it.   

Having decided that was great fun we found another fall further up the sound and decided we needed to get a bucket of fresh water to do some washing so once again edged our way up to the falls where I filled a bucket with water.  Afterwards we realised that the forestay was amongst the trees and the deck was covered in twigs and leaves! 

We arrived up at the end of Long Sound which terminates at Cascade Basin where a torrent of water cascades out of a lake into a bowl from about 30 metres up.  The force of the water landing in the pool at the bottom creates eruptions of spray shooting back up into the air and the noise created by this is quite incredible.

The yacht Dingo was anchored in the basin and later went over to them for a chat and a wine or two.

Sunday 13/03/11

Filled up with water at a water hose at a waterfall where it is possible to take the boat right alongside the cliff face.  A bow and stern line have been left there to tie up to which makes it very convenient.  There was a good stream of water from this and we washed the decks down and filled up buckets.  We retraced our steps down the Sound and washed some clothes out on the back deck – not a bad setting for doing laundry.  The method we have for doing washing is to put items into a bucket that has a lid, then shake it or roll it around – good agitator!

We anchored in Last Cove as the forecast was for Storm conditions with 35, rising to 45 and then 55 knot winds.  This is a great all weather anchorage surrounded by high hills on all sides and rising up to a 500 metre cliff at the entrance.  We tucked ourselves as far back into the cove as we could get and hung out the washing.  Didn’t take long to dry in the increasing winds.  During the night the wind came and went in huge gusts really screaming down the hills but we felt pretty secure – the new anchor is working a treat.

Monday 14/03/11

The rain also started up during the night and by morning was coming down pretty hard.  It has rained all day so we have stayed put and read books and watched a dvd.

The good thing about the rain and wind is that the sandflies keep away.  Have I mentioned sandflies before?  It is one of the downsides of this magnificent area but a small price to pay.  These tiny black flies (actually blackfly) swarm all over you as soon as you stop and bite vigorously.  There are various theories on the best repellent to use, one of which is a mixture of Dettol and baby oil.  Seems to work okay for me but we do smell rather like a ward at the local hospital. 

The whole of Long Sound is a marine reserve so we have not been able to do any fishing however Pete is trying his hand at making a frittata tonight.  The reserve covers an area of nearly 4 hectares and is the largest marine reserve in Fiordland.   It is unique as it has a very narrow and shallow entrance isolating the sound from the ocean keeping a thick layer of freshwater on top of the saltwater.  Long Sound is about 12 nautical miles or 23 kilometres to its head at Cascade Basin. 

Tuesday 15/03/11

Nice to get on the move again.  Wind had died down and we decided we should move into Chalky Inlet which is the next inlet up from Preservation.  There was still a big swell leftover from the wind we had had and we hit this as soon as we started out through Broke Adrift Passage, past Gulches Head and between Balleny Reef.  After a few tense moments with the boat side on to the big steep swells we were clear to alter course into the inlet and were soon into calmer water.

We found a spot to do some fishing and got a few good looking Blue Cod for dinner for the next couple of days.  There were some very inquisitive onlookers in the form of a number of Mollymawks.  They must be used to fishermen and were eagerly awaiting any scraps that were chucked out.  They are amazing to see close up very imposing looking with their large dark eyes tinged with black and powerful beaks.

We then headed in to Northport, an anchorage set between a number of small islands.  Once inside we found the hulk of the SS Stella, an 80ft, old government lighthouse tender which was beached on one of the islands in 1926.

We dropped our anchor and picked up a stern line that the fishermen have in place backing up to a small island.  It seems that this must be quite a favourite spot for the fishermen as there are two satellite dishes, one on the island and one over on the wreck.  A boat came by and said that anyone was welcome to hook up to the satellite dishes – no tv for us though and I certainly don’t miss it although we were feeling a little out of touch but then managed to get a Radio Australia broadcast and hear a bit about the dreadful situation in Japan. 

Wednesday 16/03/11

Rain again in the morning but we ventured out in all our wet weather gear and went down the bay for a look around.  We found a big bay with a long sandy beach and went for a good walk.  Obviously a favourite place for deer as there were tracks all over the dunes and beach but someone had been there earlier as there were also bootprints and we saw a boat earlier that had 3 or 4 deer hung up on their boat. 

Thursday 17/03/11

Up and away by 9.30 this morning and heading up Edwardson Sound to Lake Cove at the head of the Sound.

There was a fair bit of low fog hanging between the hills and valleys but this disappeared as we went further inland.  Half way up we met up with the yacht Dingo again.  They had spent the night at Lake Cove and were now heading to Northport so we swapped notes and continued on our way.  We had a leisurely cruise looking into bays and looking with wonder at the high peaks around us.

One of these peaks, Mount Inaccessible was pretty impressive looking at 1100m high and with huge boulders strewn down its sides and enormous jagged rocks at the peak. 

We settled into Lake Cove and put out a stern line to the shore as it is forecast to blow up to 25 knots from the Northwest overnight and increasing to 50 in the morning.  As we had been told the sandflies here are really bad.  They are in your face, in your ears, in your eyes and up your nose and if you open your mouth they go in there too. Enough to drive a person insane….

After a bit of lunch we hopped in the dinghy and went up to a small waterfall and tied the dinghy to a tree just below the falls.  We clambered up a steep bank and found a rough track that we had heard went to some more falls and a lake.  Tried using a handheld GPS to track our path (and to have something to track back if we got lost) but the trees are so dense that the unit was never once able to lock onto a satellite.  As it turns out the path was reasonably well defined and easy to follow but quite wet and slushy with footholds formed between tree roots making it essential to keep your eyes on the ground and a hand free to grab a tree trunk or branch as we slipped and slid our way steeply up and then down the other side to the Cora Lynn falls.  These falls were pretty impressive coming out of Lake Cadman and dropping a huge volume of water over a solid rock face about 50 metres into a swirling river. 

We carried on to the lake and were very surprised to find a large aluminium dinghy in the bush on the shore of the lake.  The only way it could have got there would have been for it to be dropped in by helicopter.  We would have taken it for a spin on the lake but couldn’t find any oars and with a very strong current flowing and the roar of the falls nearby decided it was not a good idea – we wouldn’t have been able to row against that current at any rate!  The path from here seemed to disappear and the bush was dense and the land around the lake rose steeply on all sides so we headed back to our boat.  There is another river that enters at the head of the Sound called the Lumaluma River and is able to be explored by dinghy for about a mile upstream however our attempts to go far were thwarted by the low tide.

Friday 18/03/11

Getting used to this cycle of strong norwesters then rain then change to southwest.  Its certainly been blowing hard today so we are staying put in Lake Cove.  Breadmaking day again.  Surrounded by of mountains in receding layers changing from bright greens to olives to dark grey  and then white of the cloud.  Rain coming down in sheets.  Rain, rain and more rain. Lots of waterfalls.  Lots of water coming down the Lumaluma river so the boat swings down river with the river flow and then up river with the incoming tide.

Saturday 19/03/11

Woken up at about 5am by a strange noise.  It sounded like a bilge pump running but a quick exit out of bed and a check showed that not to be the case.  Had a look around the outside of the boat in the freezing rain and pitch dark and couldn’t see anything wrong so back to bed. Just off to sleep again and the noise started up again so out on deck with the spotlight and discovered that the stern of the boat was almost on the rocks and the stern line that was tied to a tree on the shore was dragging across rocks as the boat swung around in the incoming tide. What happened was that we were relying on the strong river flow to keep the boat positioned downstream of the anchor and stern line points, but after 36 hours of rain the river flow which was very strong and we had created a strong back flow against the incoming tide which meant that the centre of the river was running one way and the side we were on was flowing upstream and had actually taken the boat upstream into shallower water. Bit scary but we tightened up all ropes and went back to bed to warm up.  Winter is definitely on the way down here.  Last night was freezing and this morning as cold as anything we have experienced in the Northern winters.

Fishing was good off the Small Craft Harbour Islands which we stopped at on our way down from Lake Cove.  Didn’t take long to catch our quota of blue cod along with a couple of scarpies (sea perch) and a spiny dogfish (small shark which will be used for bait).  There were some good sized cod but one was huge.  Pete says it’s the biggest one he has ever caught – not sure what it would weigh but length was 55cm (the legal size for keeping them is 33cm).

630pm – At anchor, Southport.  Just seen a deer on the beach.  Pete very excited but it is way too far for a shot at it.  It is a red deer – it looks to be quite a small deer, standing maybe a metre high so it’s probably a young buck or a doe. In this area there are Red Deer and Wapity. Red stags grow quite large and powerful but nothing like as big as a Wapity which are hunted for prize trophy heads in NZ.  It is not long to go to the start of the roar and the deer will be getting into condition to guard their territory and their herd so we may hear some roaring and some bullets before we leave Fiordland.

Sunday 20/03/11

Weather much improved and while we were thinking of heading up the coast to Dusky Sound which is about a 4-41/2 hour trip we decided to leave it until tomorrow when the swell which we heard was about 4 metres from the southwest will have died down a bit. 

We went for a walk instead.  This would be an ideal hunting area with a flat foreshore leading into thick scrub but with many deer tracks leading into the bush.  Saw lots of very fresh deer sign but hunters had been here a couple of days before so the animals were probably well hidden.  A charter boat with about 8 hunters aboard arrived as we were going back to Gunner just wanting to warn us that they would be hunting nearby and to check that we did not have any people in the bush. 

This sound and Preservation Inlet are probably the pick of all Fiordland Sounds for hunting due to the vast areas of rolling or level coastal forest, while the fiords further north are very steep sided and the animals tend to keep to the tops above the bush line.

This area at the bottom of Southport has a low neck which leads through to a bay in Preservation Inlet.  It seems that a northerly wind must rip through this low lying area and consequently the bushes are all low and lean at an alarming angle.  They are really tough and dense bushes and quite solid to lean on or even sit on.  The stony beach is a fossickers dream full of thick kelp and wonderful driftwood and interesting shells and stones.  Based on the history of this area we keep searching for an elusive gold nugget!  Other signs of the past on the beach was a rusty old piece of machinery presumably left over from around 1903 when a sawmill was in operation here.  The ruggedness of this area ensured that the industries that tried here, a fish freezing works in Northport and sawmill in Southport did not survive.

Dusky Sound

Monday 21/03/11

We could not have picked a more beautiful day for heading up the coast.  The morning was crisp and cold but a clear sky and light breeze and a forecast for 10 knots of variable wind was perfect for us.  Leaving the white cliffs of Chalky Island and skirting the numerous rocks off Cape Providence we headed out into the big lazy swells  - today they were quite benign and as we went north the day got better and better.  Out here off the coast the mountain ranges stood tall and just as impressive as close up.

By midday we were going past West Cape and even on a calm day the jagged finger like rocks that line this coast are smothered with spray by the huge swells hitting them. 

Entering into Dusky Sound is quite stunning.  More and more mountains appear and it is like being in a huge bowl surrounded by peaks – totally breathtaking.

The bald granite domes on Anchor Island show up white with the blue and purple peaks receding behind them.  Numerous small islands around the larger Anchor Island are laced with white where the ocean swells stop.  The high peaks to starboard are bare of trees with rock faces glinting here and there in the sun.  To the north is Five Fingers Peninsula.

We decide to stop to catch a few fish for dinner and that didn’t take long - about 15 minutes Pete had hauled up about 5 or 6 decent blue cod.  We headed in between Many Islands into the very secluded Luncheon Cove which is on the southern side of Anchor Island.  Dusky Sound is very significant in the history of Captain James Cooks voyages to New Zealand and he entered here in late March 1773 after leaving Cape Town some four months earlier to search for the great southern continent that was believed to exist.  Luncheon Cove is where Captain Cook dined on crayfish.

The cove is surrounded by bush and it is a real little paradise with birds all around – fantails, shags, woodpigeons, kaka – and in the water there are seals playing all around the bay with a lot of young pups – this cove seems to be a nursery for them and they are very inquisitive and not too afraid to come up and check us out. 

Tuesday 22/03/11

The day promised to be a good one and we were not disappointed, enjoying the calm and beauty of the cove in the sun.  Around midday we went ashore for a walk which weaves along a forest track arriving at a lake on the island.  It was a rough but well used track with lots of gnarled roots ready to trip you up, quite wet underfoot and at times with a misplaced step our boots sunk into the mud up to our ankles.  Stopping now and again to listen to the birdsong we would be surrounded by birds also quite unafraid of us.  First a robin would come up real close around our feet or sit on a branch and watch us.  Then we spotted Kakariki (a small parrot), yellowhammers, Tomtits, a Saddleback and plenty of Fantails.  This is one of the islands that is completely pest free and there are plenty of traps for rodents along the path, each with an egg in it as bait.  These would be maintained by the Dept of Conservation as they have released the rare Kakapo parrots on the island.

After a couple of hours walking we headed back to the boat for a shower before Jim and Réjane from Dingo came over for a drink.  We enjoyed a wine or two, their company and some blue cod that Pete had smoked and Réjane and I found we had a fair bit in common with our reading tastes so were able to swap a few books.

Wednesday 23/03/11

The sun was shining again, another stunning day.  We took the dinghy around the Many Islands puttering out through the Gut which is a narrow channel between the islands and opening out into a bay which was a playground for numerous seals.  Three young pups were leaping and diving along the rock wall and it was easy to follow their progress in the crystal clear water. The water is generally deep right up to the rock walls which you can see descending down into the deep.

Back in the cove saw an old anchor and a book sitting on the bottom with page open to a map of India..  Quite a lot of rubbish also visible on bottom, mostly beer bottles, which is disappointing.

In dire need of some clean clothes so we decided to move to Cascade Cove where we had heard there was a barge which has a water hose on it.  There was a charter boat there but he was just leaving so we tied up and filled our tanks with the really good clean and clear water that was gushing out of the hose.  Plenty of water to do our washing which was not a bad task in the glorious sunshine with the towering peaks above us and the beech trees above providing a bit of shade.

We anchored for the night near the head of the bay and hung out our laundry, looking like a regular Chinese laundry with washing festooning the rigging from bow to stern.

Thursday 24/03/11

Another beautiful morning in Cascade Cove. As the day warmed up the washing started steaming in the sun.

We left it to dry and took off to explore the area.  We found the waterfall that the bay was named after by Capt Cook and decided to climb up it for a way. We scrambled up the water course over boulders and through the lush undergrowth at the side of the falls until we reached a beautiful area of water cascading down the rockface.  Above us huge boulders with many loose rocks made us a little wary and not wanting to bring tons of rock tumbling down on top of us we decided not to venture further. Climbing back down again we decided to brave the icy waters and went for a dip in a pool among the rocks.  A very quick dip but you certainly feel wonderful drying off in the sun afterwards.

By the time we got back to the boat it was nearly 4 o’clock so we took all the washing in and up anchored and headed off to Pickersgill Harbour. 

Cook brought the Resolution into this harbour on 27 March 1773 – almost 238 years ago to the day.   They anchored in a small cove with a fresh water stream behind them – now called Cooks Stream.

We too would have anchored in this exact location however with a north easterly wind forecast we decided to anchor in the lee of Crayfish Island a short distance away.  It is with a real sense of awe, stepping in the footsteps of such a large part of New Zealands history that we went ashore at Astronomers Point.  Cook and his crew remained here for about five weeks during which time they set up an observatory on Astronomers Point to ascertain the exact Longitude and get an accurate fix for Dusky Sound.  On this point stumps of trees remain that were cut down by Cooks men.

Anchored off the western end of Long Island.

Friday 25/03/2011

We had a quick dinghy trip over to Indian Island to have a look at a small concealed harbour that was used by Maori living in the area to hide their canoes from marauding tribes.  A narrow entrance opens out into a small tree covered cove and at high tide there would have been another entrance to the south however a huge tree has fallen which now blocks that entrance.  There are reportedly remains of Maori occupation on the hill above this harbour and Capt Cooks journals show that this is where he first met the Maoris in 1773 and during his stay there communicated with the small family living on the island.  We had to head back to the boat as the wind was picking up and we didn’t fancy getting swamped heading back across the open stretch of water between Indian and Long Island. 

Next stop was Earshell Cove and The Basin on the southern side of Resolution Island.  There is a narrow but deep water passage into this area.  We found a rock wall that dropped steeply into the water and put Gunner alongside – just to have a look! 

Then went into the Basin which is an inlet about one and a half km long and half km wide. The day was still sunny and in here we were sheltered from the wind outside and so cut the engine and drifted enjoying the peace and quiet.  With very little current the boat hardly moved from the centre of the bay.  We spotted a DoC hut at the end of the bay high up on a ledge and went looking for a track which we found in a little nook at the very end of the bay.  We walked for about half an hour up a well marked and reasonably well worn track without finding any sign of the hut so returned until we found another track and a short climb later we came out onto a cleared area where the hut was located.  It looks like this is for the use of DoC workers and is a well set up two roomed tin hut with a couple of bunks, cooking facilities, water tank etc.  It also appeared to be an area that a helicopter could land in and drums of aviation fuel were stored on site.

After a quick nosy around we quickly headed back to the boat as the wind had picked up and was funnelling straight down the bay.   After getting the anchor up we motored back to the snug anchorage between Resolution and Earshell Islands.  The name Earshell refers to a beach just to the north covered in these shells.

Just after getting settled we were visited by a DoC boat that is in the area dropping off people to do some hunting.  There are still some deer on Resolution Island that they are trying to eradicate.

Saturday 26/03/2011

This morning we went for a look over at the beach across from where we were anchored and found very fresh deer tracks on the beach – it must have been watching us instead of us watching it.. 

A bit of a dreary day with overcast sky and patches of drizzle but not enough to stop us doing anything.

Facile harbour – wreck of the Endeavour (not Captain Cooks Endeavour)  huge cliff face of granite

Pigeon Island – Richard Henry, caretaker of Resolution Island. Lived on Pigeon Island for 14 years from1894.

Just before Duck Cove we were briefly visited by a large pod of bottlenose dolphins.  They are enormous compared to other dolphins we have seen so far on this trip and were very friendly, rolling over and eying us as we hung over the bow to watch them frolic in our bow wave. 

We carried on into Duck Cove and filled up with water from a waterfall and then anchored for the night. 

Sunday 27/03/11

Today on the anniversary of Cooks arrival in Dusky Sound we travelled down the Sound in breezy southwesterly winds towards the head of the Sound.  The run of magnificent sunny warm weather was over and now we were seeing another face of Dusky.  Massive mountains appeared and receded in the swirling clouds and whitecaps rolled down the bay with us.  Through Pagets Passage and then the tiny opening into Sportsman Cove opened up and we shot through like a cork into a small enclosed harbour – at the end of which at least three small waterfalls ran happily into the bay.

Outside again we continued down the southern side of Cooper Island with the huge peaks of Mt Burnett 1269m and Mt Edgecumbe 1104 rising straight out of the sound, water courses rushing down their faces and slips of trees and rocks leave huge scars for more water to fall down. 

Nine Fathom Passage – another spectacular waterfall coming straight out of the trees and falling to the water below.

Anchored for the night in Shark Cove which is adjacent to Supper Cove and pretty much as far up Dusky as you can go.  Mt Solitary reared 1453m above us and the trees here are moss laden right up in the tops.

Monday 28/03/2011

Raining on and off this morning but after a big bowl of porridge for breakfast we went round to Supper Cove.  Dingo was just leaving as we headed in and they gave us a heads up on a mooring that was available for use.  We found this and picked it up – not sure who’s mooring but no one around and it beats anchoring. Supper Cove is the end of Dusky Sound and a large river – the Seaforth ends its journey here.  There is also a DoC hut here and this is part of the Dusky walking track which is a particularly tough 84km, 8-10 day track.  We went ashore and had a look at the hut which can sleep 12 people.  The DoC huts are basic but set up with rough bunks and mattresses, water, a woodburner, an axe (very blunt) and saw and an outside toilet.  After a look around we carried on up the Seaforth River which is pretty shallow at this point and studded with huge tree trunks which makes the going slow watching out that we don’t hit one of these underwater hazards.  Just before some rapids which barred us going further in the dinghy we found a landing area which was the site of the old hut.  We left the dinghy here with our seaboots and donned our hiking boots and set off along the track.  At this point the track was easy going through some magnificent forest with huge beech and rimu trees dripping with hanging moss.  Deer tracks showed in the muddy sections. 

Small bits of colour among the green – purple mushrooms fat and glistening like jubes,  yellow lichens, tiny red berries among a type of fine groundcover, big fat red berries and purple black berries on some of the trees. 

The track deteriorated in places becoming more like a stream or mud holes and it didn’t take long for our boots to sink into the mire.  I was trying very hard to keep clean and had a good laugh when Pete jumped a muddy patch and didn’t quite make it his back foot going up to his ankle in mud.  It wasn’t long though till it was my turn to sink and on the way back we took turns in muddying ourselves further.  Going through a small stream Pete slipped back down the bank and landed up on his back in the water looking rather like a stranded beetle kicking its legs in the air unable to get up!  Then I took a dive slipping off a log and going knee first into a mud puddle. 

We walked for two hours and after traversing one of the 3 wire bridges we decided it was time to turn for home.  The 3 wire bridges (consisting of a wire that you place your feet on and two wires at a higher level that you hold on to) are quite an adventure, especially for one as accident prone as myself however we both managed to wobble there and back again without falling into the river below. 

We arrived back at the dinghy looking rather worse for wear but thoroughly enjoyed the few hours of walking.  Back at the boat we washed off our muddy gear and then enjoyed a hot shower.  The heater was lit, glasses of wine drunk, fish cooked and all was well on a wet, grey and raining evening. 

Tuesday 29/03/2011

The wind got up during the early hours of the morning and was blowing well from the southwest by daylight (it really only gets light here around 8 am which reminds me, daylight saving must be finishing soon).  We were glad to be on a mooring rather than at anchor as the savage gusts hit the boat.  After breakfast we donned our wet weather gear and loaded the dinghy onboard and then headed back towards the Acheron Passage. 

It was a day of waterfalls – everywhere another one each one more spectacular, dropping into space or cascading down rocks.

We couldn’t see much on the way down the start of the passage as thick mist and rain kept obscuring everything within a mile radius of us.  Fine time to find the radar has packed up.  We saw a cruise ship the other day and visions of another one appearing out of the murk kept us alert but as we got near the half way mark of the passage the cloud started to lift and scraps of blue sky appeared.  The Acheron Passage between the mainland and Resolution Island separates Dusky Sound from Breaksea Sound and is well used as it is the shorter and more sheltered route than the coast.

Wet Jacket Arm, so named by Capt Cook as Lieutenant Pickersgill was caught in some inclement weather while out investigating, is situated half way up the Acheron Passage.  We went to investigate a small anchorage at the junction between Acheron and Wet Jacket Arm and found Dingo at anchor there.  After a chat we dropped our anchor and they left to continue up the arm.  The sun had appeared, the wind dropped and it was absolutely glorious in this secluded spot between two islands (apart from the sandflies which were probably the worst we have encountered).  We got all the wet clothing from our walk out to wash and dry while we had some lunch and then decided to go further up the arm.

By this time the weather was fantastic and the scenery in Wet Jacket is truly spectacular with high sides along the fairly narrow sound with 100’s of waterfalls plunging out of the sheer sides. We motored slowly up one side of the sound checking the many land slips for deer. These are about the only areas that we will see deer as the forest canopy is too dense and sure enough we sighted two high up a slip but too far for a feasible shot. By the time we got to where we are anchored for the night (Oke Island) we had seen several more deer - obviously more of them in this Fiord even though there are plenty of hunters around the steepness of the terrain would make it extremely tough going for them.

Wednesday 30/03/2011

What an amazing day.  When we were first up tendrils of mist were rising up off the calm waters of the sound and sliding around the mountain sides.  It was so calm and quiet and we saw Dingo go silently past and then disappear like a dream behind the island a distance away from us. 

The day was too good to miss so we pulled up the anchor and had breakfast (big bowl of porridge) as we motored up the silent sound.  At the head of this lovely sound we cut the engine and sat and marvelled at the scenery.  It is impossible to describe this place, and photos do not do it justice either, not only the majesty of the hugeness of it all but also all the minute details that make it so fascinating, the rocks, shot through with streaks of white marble or granite, others that look like huge nuggets of gold, the endless reflections; the black bark of the beech trees forming skeletons against the greenery; the moss and lichens.

Eventually we had to leave this magic spot and move on.

Back into the Acheron Passage and into Breaksea Sound and found a spot to anchor in Third Cove.

Thursday 31/03/2011

Its raining again… and blowing…  anyway we up anchored and decided to have a look up Broughton Arm.  Very steep sides with series of peaks rising up into the mist – its amazing the difference in mood and atmosphere between one day to the next – sun to grey overcast.

At the head of the arm we caught up with Dingo again and rafted up alongside them.  It was pouring with rain and they invited us over for a cup of tea.  Several hours later after tea and a couple of bottles of red wine we retired for the night.

Friday 01/04/2011

It was a cold night and we weren’t at all surprised this morning to find that several of the high peaks around us had a decent coating of snow.  Winter has arrived.

The end of this arm is quite spectacular with these sheer cliffs all around us.  Yesterday between breaks in the rain we were entranced by the number of waterfalls dropping down dizzying heights all around us.  In a quick count I saw fifteen around us.  This morning now the rain has gone the falls have all but disappeared.

The Maggie Rose, a large aluminium boat from Nelson arrived in the bay to drop off a load of hunters.  We decided that it was a better idea to stay warm in bed than go bashing through wet bush.

Around 10 we made a move – the sun was out and the scenery spectacular, snow still dusted the peaks, particularly Mt Crowfoot around 1600m high.

Fishing was on the agenda for the day and after trying a couple of spots we hit the right spot.  Today was my turn for catching fish which has to be a first – I kept pulling up big blue cod but Pete wasn’t getting any which didn’t seem to amuse him much!  We got our six for the day and continued up Vancouver Arm and found a sheltered bay for the night.  Once we had the anchor set and the stern line around a convenient tree we went and gathered mussels off a rock nearby.

Saturday 02/04/2011

Rained most of today but we had a busy day.  Pete smoked the fish that we caught yesterday having prepared it yesterday with salt and brown sugar.  The other thing we have found is quite good smoked is whole bulbs of garlic.  I made bread and steamed all the mussels and pickled them in vinegar.  We also smoked a few of the mussels.  So we are now feeling very self sufficient and pleased with ourselves!!

The forecast has not been too good for the coast and we are waiting for a break to get up to the next sound, Doubtful Sound, but there are a series of fronts coming through not quite far enough apart to allow the large swells to abate.  At this stage it may be Tuesday.

Sunday 03/04/2011

Daylight saving has ended today. This has not improved the weather though which has really closed in with cloud down low on the fiord sides and steady fine rain. There has been no break in the rain for over 24 hours and the waterfalls we can see from the boat are spectacular. Because of the huge rainfall the upper surface of most of the inner fiords are fresh water down to a depth of a metre or so. This fresh water layer appears to move with the tides to a greater extent than the underlying salt water. Consequently any debris and leaves on the surface flow down the fiord with the tides whilst the stuff in the salt water stays still. Even in bright sunlight the surface of the water appears black but visibility can be great down 6 – 8 metres deep. To be able to catch big blue cod, over 500mm long, 15 miles up a fiord is pretty terrific. The catch limit  for the inner fiords is 3 cod per person whilst the outer fiord limit is 20 with a minimum size of 33mm. One can’t help thinking how lucky we are to be eating huge servings of blue cod considering the retail price in Auckland fish shops tops $40 Kg. As a result of this seafood binge we are not reducing our stock of frozen meats at any fast rate although the occasional piece of steak or chicken, even a sausage, is a welcome break from seafood. Crayfish (lobsters) are plentiful in the outer fiords but the thought of diving in water this cold is a fairly strong deterrent until the craving gets too bad and the shark episode in Stewart Island has made us a bit nervous as Great Whites are often seen around this area.

Monday 04/04/2011

This morning it stopped raining for a while and there was even sunshine.  This was cause for excitement and it was definitely time to make a move before we grew into place here.  The top of Vancouver Arm was similar to Broughton Arm with a basin at the end surrounded by steep sided peaks dropping water from dizzying heights.

Showers still came and went and at times it felt like we were in a black and white world, all colour gone just white clouds and mist and the layers of hills in varying tones of blacks and greys.

494

On the way a small runabout boat came by.  The two men had stopped by a couple of days before to say hello.  They were hunting and staying on one of the barges moored in the area that have accommodation.  As we saw them coming closer we could see that their hunting had been successful by the haunches of meat hanging from every corner of the boat.  They pulled alongside and handed over a hunk of raw meat. It was the back steaks of a deer, still warm and I swear just about still throbbing!

We had a laugh earlier when asked if we were hunting – Pete tells them he isn’t going out of his way to go hunting but if a convenient opportunity arose where a shot would drop a deer onto the deck of the boat from a hill above or a convenient beach that would be his idea of hunting.  Yeah said the one hunter, you occasionally get the drive bys…

We headed down the main sound to the Harbour Islands and an anchorage known as Beach Harbour –  a channel between the mainland and a couple of islands.  Snow is still sitting on some of the tops and I am sure there will be more tomorrow as it is pretty cold tonight with a southwesterly wind coming up to 30 knots tonight.

Tuesday 05/04/2011

Beach Harbour anchorage in Breaksea Sound was quite a busy place last night, with four other boats in the anchorage it would be the most boats we have seen in one place for months.  Dingo was there as well as Pembroke and Matakana who are both charter boats.  The DoC boat Southern Wind also arrived.  They had a bunch of people onboard and came and asked if they could put a diver down in the morning to have a look at the bottom of the boat. they said that a non native seaweed called Undaria has been found in a couple of areas around the sound which they are trying to eradicate.  The night was particularly cold and the morning no warmer with dustings of snow still on the peaks.  This however didn’t seem to phase the hardy DoC people who were alongside at around 7.30am.  The diver reported that our bottom was pretty good, still clean apart from a bit of slime.

We had some breakfast and then decided, seeing as the day was looking pretty good but the forecast was not going to improve and in fact deteriorate through till at least Friday, that we would give it a go to get up the coast to Doubtful Sound.  We put the dinghy on board and waved goodbye to Dingo who were also heading out.  After tying everything down we went round to Sunday Cove where there is a barge and filled up with water before heading for the open sea.

Out past Breaksea Island the swell started to make its presence known and it wasn’t long before we were rolling along in the 4 metre swells.  It was good being out on the coast again with the mollymawks and petrels wheeling and soaring around us.  Some of the mollymawks come so close to the boat and look like they are going to come straight through the wheelhouse windows before effortlessly veering away to skim their wingtips over the wavetops.

Three and a half hours later we reached the Hares Ears,  a small rocky island at the entrance to Doubtful Sound.  By this time the wind had increased from the 10-15 we had at the outset to around 20-25 and the sea had risen with it and the waves that were crashing onto the Hares Ears made a spectacular sight particularly when we saw a crayfisher boat that was working close into the rocks of this island.  We would lose sight of him altogether as the swells rolled in and then catch a glimpse as he made the boat dance in and out of the rocks to drop or retrieve pots in the seething water.  These fishermen have to be admired for being pretty damn tough.

Heading down the Sound past Bauza Island we could see the mountains here had much more than a light covering.  It may be that we will have to start heading north before too long.

Doubtful Sound was named by Captain Cook when he sighted it in 1770 but didn’t enter as he was doubtful that they would be able to sail out of the entrance without an easterly wind.   The Spanish names in the area come from a Spanish expedition that mapped some of the sound in 1793. 

This sound is the second longest at 22 miles long and the deepest with sections dropping to over 420 metres.