Friday 8th April
Hello again – we are in Deep Cove, Doubtful Sound where we are able to get a bit of internet airtime so here is an update on what we have been doing for the past month. Its probably a bit longwinded and having trouble loading photos and running out of time so will put morephotos on some other time.. We will be going from here in a day or so and our next area for communication will be in Milford Sound so look forward to hearing from anyone by email or on here.
We left Bluff around 530am in the pitch dark and cautiously threaded our way out through the red and green markers into a sloppy sea. The day was long and uncomfortable with 20 knots of Southwesterly wind and 2-3 metre swells and grey and overcast. The southern coast of the South Island became interesting when we approached the great peaks of the Hump Ridge. Layers upon layers of black, blue and purple mountain ridges bruised the skyline, dark and mysterious with their secrets and old knowledge of times past. Parts of these ranges would be some of the most isolated and remote places of the world. The steep sides of the hills at Prices Point formed a frame for the shower of rain and rays of sunlight streaking through the dark clouds while in the foreground the mollymawks glide gracefully by accompanied at times by big flocks of sooty shearwaters skimming the waves.
Puysegur Point came into sight at last and after tense consulting of charts and rocks we found our way into Otago’s Retreat, a narrow passage between Coal Island Treble Mountain
The charts show unsurveyed areas but the dangers were mostly quite visible and we were soon happily anchored in Kisbee Bay Cemetery Island Kisbee Bay
Needed a bit of a sleep in after the long day getting here so it was late morning before we were taking note of our surroundings and the lovely anchorage we were in. I was looking towards the rocky beach and heard a strange sound and then saw a movement. A huge grey boulder was moving, slowly humping itself towards the water. Hippopotamus – no, but an enormous elephant seal that proceeded to huff and puff and blow water until it sank under the water. We followed its progress as it would spout water now and again and it slowly came to a rocky area near the boat and lay still. Anyone would quite easily mistake it for a rock if they had not seen it move. When it lifted its head out the water we could see its trunk like nose and its body was maybe 2 metres in length. Eventually it moved slowly out into the bay where the only indication was the occasional spout of water.
We went over to the island, looking out carefully for other elephant seals, and found the wooden post and plaque that marked the grave of William Docherty, a prospector that was buried on the island in 1896. We then took the boat back down Otago’s Retreat and anchored in a small bay in the lee of Coal Island
Before we took off a yacht came over to say hello. They were about to head out to Bluff having come down the west coast and spent some time in the fiords. After a chat they asked if we wanted a couple of crayfish as they had plenty and were quite tired of them! As we haven’t had any crays since the Marlborough Sounds we were most grateful.
The walk to the lighthouse took about an hour there and half an hour back at a fast pace as it was getting a bit late in the day. The track is the old route that was used to supply the settlement at the Point in the days when the light was manned and was easy walking. At the point it was clear that the Northerly wind was picking up and as it was cold and blustery we didn’t hang around for long.
On our way up the inlet to find an anchorage, a fishing boat, that was nearby came racing over to us and asked if wanted some crayfish. We thanked them but declined the offer as we already had two. Maybe at this rate we won’t have to go diving for them ourselves!
We found the spot shown in the cruising guide at the start of Isthmus Sound and dropped the anchor and put out a stern line. Pete took this ashore in the dinghy and while trying to row back was acting rather strangely, waving his arms and batting at his face and head. The sandflies were eating him alive, getting in his eyes, nose and mouth. Luckily they weren’t quite so bad at the boat but we still had to have citronella candles burning and the doors closed to keep them at bay.
The wind started blowing in the night and has been gusting through the day from the north and northwest at about 35 knots. Out in the sound the water is covered in whitecaps and showers and squalls keep blasting the boat. The plan to go by dinghy up the sound to look at the Tarawera Smelter site has been put on hold till the wind dies down. The high peak named Forgotten Peak
After a full morning of waiting for each gust to break the anchor free or for the stern line to break – either of which would have quickly put the boat on to the rocks close at hand, we decided to re-anchor in the cove. We moved up to an area that seemed more sheltered from the gusts and dropped the anchor – once, twice, three times before we got it right. Either it did not hold or we found that we were too close to the shore for the amount of rope that we needed to let out or it just didn’t feel right. So that was our exercise for the day after which we settled down to read a bit more and have a crayfish for dinner.
The wind eventually died down during the night and produced a misty start to the morning and we went to look at the top end of the Isthmus Sound. Huge slabs of rock with trees hanging out of the rock and large overhangs produced some astounding pictures. We retraced our track and on the way into Long Sound saw the large luxury yacht, Itasca which we have seen in Auckland
Jane Coves was beautiful and cosy but too shallow for us to anchor so we went round the small islets and dropped our anchor in Lady Bay
We heard about the huge earthquake in
Having decided that was great fun we found another fall further up the sound and decided we needed to get a bucket of fresh water to do some washing so once again edged our way up to the falls where I filled a bucket with water. Afterwards we realised that the forestay was amongst the trees and the deck was covered in twigs and leaves!
We arrived up at the end of Long Sound which terminates at Cascade Basin
The yacht Dingo was anchored in the basin and later went over to them for a chat and a wine or two.
Filled up with water at a water hose at a waterfall where it is possible to take the boat right alongside the cliff face. A bow and stern line have been left there to tie up to which makes it very convenient. There was a good stream of water from this and we washed the decks down and filled up buckets. We retraced our steps down the Sound and washed some clothes out on the back deck – not a bad setting for doing laundry. The method we have for doing washing is to put items into a bucket that has a lid, then shake it or roll it around – good agitator!
We anchored in Last Cove as the forecast was for Storm conditions with 35, rising to 45 and then 55 knot winds. This is a great all weather anchorage surrounded by high hills on all sides and rising up to a 500 metre cliff at the entrance. We tucked ourselves as far back into the cove as we could get and hung out the washing. Didn’t take long to dry in the increasing winds. During the night the wind came and went in huge gusts really screaming down the hills but we felt pretty secure – the new anchor is working a treat.
The rain also started up during the night and by morning was coming down pretty hard. It has rained all day so we have stayed put and read books and watched a dvd.
The good thing about the rain and wind is that the sandflies keep away. Have I mentioned sandflies before? It is one of the downsides of this magnificent area but a small price to pay. These tiny black flies (actually blackfly) swarm all over you as soon as you stop and bite vigorously. There are various theories on the best repellent to use, one of which is a mixture of Dettol and baby oil. Seems to work okay for me but we do smell rather like a ward at the local hospital.
The whole of Long Sound is a marine reserve so we have not been able to do any fishing however Pete is trying his hand at making a frittata tonight. The reserve covers an area of nearly 4 hectares and is the largest marine reserve in Fiordland. It is unique as it has a very narrow and shallow entrance isolating the sound from the ocean keeping a thick layer of freshwater on top of the saltwater. Long Sound is about 12 nautical miles or 23 kilometres to its head at Cascade Basin
Nice to get on the move again. Wind had died down and we decided we should move into Chalky Inlet which is the next inlet up from Preservation. There was still a big swell leftover from the wind we had had and we hit this as soon as we started out through Broke Adrift Passage, past Gulches Head and between Balleny Reef. After a few tense moments with the boat side on to the big steep swells we were clear to alter course into the inlet and were soon into calmer water.
We found a spot to do some fishing and got a few good looking Blue Cod for dinner for the next couple of days. There were some very inquisitive onlookers in the form of a number of Mollymawks. They must be used to fishermen and were eagerly awaiting any scraps that were chucked out. They are amazing to see close up very imposing looking with their large dark eyes tinged with black and powerful beaks.
We then headed in to Northport, an anchorage set between a number of small islands. Once inside we found the hulk of the SS Stella, an 80ft, old government lighthouse tender which was beached on one of the islands in 1926.
We dropped our anchor and picked up a stern line that the fishermen have in place backing up to a small island. It seems that this must be quite a favourite spot for the fishermen as there are two satellite dishes, one on the island and one over on the wreck. A boat came by and said that anyone was welcome to hook up to the satellite dishes – no tv for us though and I certainly don’t miss it although we were feeling a little out of touch but then managed to get a Radio Australia broadcast and hear a bit about the dreadful situation in Japan.
Rain again in the morning but we ventured out in all our wet weather gear and went down the bay for a look around. We found a big bay with a long sandy beach and went for a good walk. Obviously a favourite place for deer as there were tracks all over the dunes and beach but someone had been there earlier as there were also bootprints and we saw a boat earlier that had 3 or 4 deer hung up on their boat.
Up and away by 9.30 this morning and heading up Edwardson Sound to Lake Cove
There was a fair bit of low fog hanging between the hills and valleys but this disappeared as we went further inland. Half way up we met up with the yacht Dingo again. They had spent the night at Lake Cove
One of these peaks, Mount Inaccessible
We settled into Lake Cove
After a bit of lunch we hopped in the dinghy and went up to a small waterfall and tied the dinghy to a tree just below the falls. We clambered up a steep bank and found a rough track that we had heard went to some more falls and a lake. Tried using a handheld GPS to track our path (and to have something to track back if we got lost) but the trees are so dense that the unit was never once able to lock onto a satellite. As it turns out the path was reasonably well defined and easy to follow but quite wet and slushy with footholds formed between tree roots making it essential to keep your eyes on the ground and a hand free to grab a tree trunk or branch as we slipped and slid our way steeply up and then down the other side to the Cora Lynn falls. These falls were pretty impressive coming out of Lake Cadman and dropping a huge volume of water over a solid rock face about 50 metres into a swirling river.
We carried on to the lake and were very surprised to find a large aluminium dinghy in the bush on the shore of the lake. The only way it could have got there would have been for it to be dropped in by helicopter. We would have taken it for a spin on the lake but couldn’t find any oars and with a very strong current flowing and the roar of the falls nearby decided it was not a good idea – we wouldn’t have been able to row against that current at any rate! The path from here seemed to disappear and the bush was dense and the land around the lake rose steeply on all sides so we headed back to our boat. There is another river that enters at the head of the Sound called the Lumaluma River
Getting used to this cycle of strong norwesters then rain then change to southwest. Its certainly been blowing hard today so we are staying put in Lake Cove
Woken up at about 5am by a strange noise. It sounded like a bilge pump running but a quick exit out of bed and a check showed that not to be the case. Had a look around the outside of the boat in the freezing rain and pitch dark and couldn’t see anything wrong so back to bed. Just off to sleep again and the noise started up again so out on deck with the spotlight and discovered that the stern of the boat was almost on the rocks and the stern line that was tied to a tree on the shore was dragging across rocks as the boat swung around in the incoming tide. What happened was that we were relying on the strong river flow to keep the boat positioned downstream of the anchor and stern line points, but after 36 hours of rain the river flow which was very strong and we had created a strong back flow against the incoming tide which meant that the centre of the river was running one way and the side we were on was flowing upstream and had actually taken the boat upstream into shallower water. Bit scary but we tightened up all ropes and went back to bed to warm up. Winter is definitely on the way down here. Last night was freezing and this morning as cold as anything we have experienced in the Northern winters.
Fishing was good off the Small Craft Harbour Islands Lake Cove
630pm – At anchor, Southport . Just seen a deer on the beach. Pete very excited but it is way too far for a shot at it. It is a red deer Red Deer
Weather much improved and while we were thinking of heading up the coast to Dusky Sound which is about a 4-41/2 hour trip we decided to leave it until tomorrow when the swell which we heard was about 4 metres from the southwest will have died down a bit.
We went for a walk instead. This would be an ideal hunting area with a flat foreshore leading into thick scrub but with many deer tracks leading into the bush. Saw lots of very fresh deer sign but hunters had been here a couple of days before so the animals were probably well hidden. A charter boat with about 8 hunters aboard arrived as we were going back to Gunner just wanting to warn us that they would be hunting nearby and to check that we did not have any people in the bush.
This sound and Preservation Inlet are probably the pick of all Fiordland Sounds for hunting due to the vast areas of rolling or level coastal forest, while the fiords further north are very steep sided and the animals tend to keep to the tops above the bush line.
This area at the bottom of Southport has a low neck which leads through to a bay in Preservation Inlet. It seems that a northerly wind must rip through this low lying area and consequently the bushes are all low and lean at an alarming angle. They are really tough and dense bushes and quite solid to lean on or even sit on. The stony beach is a fossickers dream full of thick kelp and wonderful driftwood and interesting shells and stones. Based on the history of this area we keep searching for an elusive gold nugget! Other signs of the past on the beach was a rusty old piece of machinery presumably left over from around 1903 when a sawmill was in operation here. The ruggedness of this area ensured that the industries that tried here, a fish freezing works in Northport and sawmill in Southport did not survive.
We could not have picked a more beautiful day for heading up the coast. The morning was crisp and cold but a clear sky and light breeze and a forecast for 10 knots of variable wind was perfect for us. Leaving the white cliffs of Chalky Island and skirting the numerous rocks off Cape Providence we headed out into the big lazy swells - today they were quite benign and as we went north the day got better and better. Out here off the coast the mountain ranges stood tall and just as impressive as close up.
By midday we were going past West Cape and even on a calm day the jagged finger like rocks that line this coast are smothered with spray by the huge swells hitting them.
Entering into Dusky Sound is quite stunning. More and more mountains appear and it is like being in a huge bowl surrounded by peaks – totally breathtaking.
The bald granite domes on Anchor Island Anchor Island Five Fingers Peninsula
We decide to stop to catch a few fish for dinner and that didn’t take long - about 15 minutes Pete had hauled up about 5 or 6 decent blue cod. We headed in between Many Islands Anchor Island New Zealand Cape Town
The cove is surrounded by bush and it is a real little paradise with birds all around – fantails, shags, woodpigeons, kaka – and in the water there are seals playing all around the bay with a lot of young pups – this cove seems to be a nursery for them and they are very inquisitive and not too afraid to come up and check us out.
The day promised to be a good one and we were not disappointed, enjoying the calm and beauty of the cove in the sun. Around midday we went ashore for a walk which weaves along a forest track arriving at a lake on the island. It was a rough but well used track with lots of gnarled roots ready to trip you up, quite wet underfoot and at times with a misplaced step our boots sunk into the mud up to our ankles. Stopping now and again to listen to the birdsong we would be surrounded by birds also quite unafraid of us. First a robin would come up real close around our feet or sit on a branch and watch us. Then we spotted Kakariki (a small parrot), yellowhammers, Tomtits, a Saddleback and plenty of Fantails. This is one of the islands that is completely pest free and there are plenty of traps for rodents along the path, each with an egg in it as bait. These would be maintained by the Dept of Conservation as they have released the rare Kakapo parrots on the island.
After a couple of hours walking we headed back to the boat for a shower before Jim and Réjane from Dingo came over for a drink. We enjoyed a wine or two, their company and some blue cod that Pete had smoked and Réjane and I found we had a fair bit in common with our reading tastes so were able to swap a few books.
The sun was shining again, another stunning day. We took the dinghy around the Many Islands
Back in the cove saw an old anchor and a book sitting on the bottom with page open to a map of India
In dire need of some clean clothes so we decided to move to Cascade Cove where we had heard there was a barge which has a water hose on it. There was a charter boat there but he was just leaving so we tied up and filled our tanks with the really good clean and clear water that was gushing out of the hose. Plenty of water to do our washing which was not a bad task in the glorious sunshine with the towering peaks above us and the beech trees above providing a bit of shade.
We anchored for the night near the head of the bay and hung out our laundry, looking like a regular Chinese laundry with washing festooning the rigging from bow to stern.
We anchored for the night near the head of the bay and hung out our laundry, looking like a regular Chinese laundry with washing festooning the rigging from bow to stern.
Another beautiful morning in Cascade Cove. As the day warmed up the washing started steaming in the sun.
We left it to dry and took off to explore the area. We found the waterfall that the bay was named after by Capt Cook and decided to climb up it for a way. We scrambled up the water course over boulders and through the lush undergrowth at the side of the falls until we reached a beautiful area of water cascading down the rockface. Above us huge boulders with many loose rocks made us a little wary and not wanting to bring tons of rock tumbling down on top of us we decided not to venture further. Climbing back down again we decided to brave the icy waters and went for a dip in a pool among the rocks. A very quick dip but you certainly feel wonderful drying off in the sun afterwards.
By the time we got back to the boat it was nearly 4 o’clock so we took all the washing in and up anchored and headed off to Pickersgill Harbour
Cook brought the Resolution into this harbour on 27 March 1773 – almost 238 years ago to the day. They anchored in a small cove with a fresh water stream behind them – now called Cooks Stream.
We too would have anchored in this exact location however with a north easterly wind forecast we decided to anchor in the lee of
Anchored off the western end of Long Island .
We had a quick dinghy trip over to Indian Island Long Island .
Next stop was Earshell Cove and The Basin on the southern side of Resolution Island
Then went into the Basin which is an inlet about one and a half km long and half km wide. The day was still sunny and in here we were sheltered from the wind outside and so cut the engine and drifted enjoying the peace and quiet. With very little current the boat hardly moved from the centre of the bay. We spotted a DoC hut at the end of the bay high up on a ledge and went looking for a track which we found in a little nook at the very end of the bay. We walked for about half an hour up a well marked and reasonably well worn track without finding any sign of the hut so returned until we found another track and a short climb later we came out onto a cleared area where the hut was located. It looks like this is for the use of DoC workers and is a well set up two roomed tin hut with a couple of bunks, cooking facilities, water tank etc. It also appeared to be an area that a helicopter could land in and drums of aviation fuel were stored on site.
After a quick nosy around we quickly headed back to the boat as the wind had picked up and was funnelling straight down the bay. After getting the anchor up we motored back to the snug anchorage between Resolution and Earshell Islands
Just after getting settled we were visited by a DoC boat that is in the area dropping off people to do some hunting. There are still some deer on Resolution Island
This morning we went for a look over at the beach across from where we were anchored and found very fresh deer tracks on the beach – it must have been watching us instead of us watching it..
A bit of a dreary day with overcast sky and patches of drizzle but not enough to stop us doing anything.
Facile harbour – wreck of the Endeavour (not Captain Cooks Endeavour) huge cliff face of granite
Just before Duck Cove we were briefly visited by a large pod of bottlenose dolphins. They are enormous compared to other dolphins we have seen so far on this trip and were very friendly, rolling over and eying us as we hung over the bow to watch them frolic in our bow wave.
We carried on into Duck Cove and filled up with water from a waterfall and then anchored for the night.
Today on the anniversary of Cooks arrival in Dusky Sound we travelled down the Sound in breezy southwesterly winds towards the head of the Sound. The run of magnificent sunny warm weather was over and now we were seeing another face of Dusky. Massive mountains appeared and receded in the swirling clouds and whitecaps rolled down the bay with us. Through Pagets Passage and then the tiny opening into Sportsman Cove opened up and we shot through like a cork into a small enclosed harbour – at the end of which at least three small waterfalls ran happily into the bay.
Outside again we continued down the southern side of Cooper Island
Nine Fathom Passage – another spectacular waterfall coming straight out of the trees and falling to the water below.
Anchored for the night in Shark Cove which is adjacent to Supper Cove and pretty much as far up Dusky as you can go. Mt Solitary reared 1453m above us and the trees here are moss laden right up in the tops.
Raining on and off this morning but after a big bowl of porridge for breakfast we went round to Supper Cove. Dingo was just leaving as we headed in and they gave us a heads up on a mooring that was available for use. We found this and picked it up – not sure who’s mooring but no one around and it beats anchoring. Supper Cove is the end of Dusky Sound and a large river – the Seaforth ends its journey here. There is also a DoC hut here and this is part of the Dusky walking track which is a particularly tough 84km, 8-10 day track. We went ashore and had a look at the hut which can sleep 12 people. The DoC huts are basic but set up with rough bunks and mattresses, water, a woodburner, an axe (very blunt) and saw and an outside toilet. After a look around we carried on up the Seaforth River which is pretty shallow at this point and studded with huge tree trunks which makes the going slow watching out that we don’t hit one of these underwater hazards. Just before some rapids which barred us going further in the dinghy we found a landing area which was the site of the old hut. We left the dinghy here with our seaboots and donned our hiking boots and set off along the track. At this point the track was easy going through some magnificent forest with huge beech and rimu trees dripping with hanging moss. Deer tracks showed in the muddy sections.
Small bits of colour among the green – purple mushrooms fat and glistening like jubes, yellow lichens, tiny red berries among a type of fine groundcover, big fat red berries and purple black berries on some of the trees.
The track deteriorated in places becoming more like a stream or mud holes and it didn’t take long for our boots to sink into the mire. I was trying very hard to keep clean and had a good laugh when Pete jumped a muddy patch and didn’t quite make it his back foot going up to his ankle in mud. It wasn’t long though till it was my turn to sink and on the way back we took turns in muddying ourselves further. Going through a small stream Pete slipped back down the bank and landed up on his back in the water looking rather like a stranded beetle kicking its legs in the air unable to get up! Then I took a dive slipping off a log and going knee first into a mud puddle.
We walked for two hours and after traversing one of the 3 wire bridges we decided it was time to turn for home. The 3 wire bridges (consisting of a wire that you place your feet on and two wires at a higher level that you hold on to) are quite an adventure, especially for one as accident prone as myself however we both managed to wobble there and back again without falling into the river below.
We arrived back at the dinghy looking rather worse for wear but thoroughly enjoyed the few hours of walking. Back at the boat we washed off our muddy gear and then enjoyed a hot shower. The heater was lit, glasses of wine drunk, fish cooked and all was well on a wet, grey and raining evening.
The wind got up during the early hours of the morning and was blowing well from the southwest by daylight (it really only gets light here around 8 am which reminds me, daylight saving must be finishing soon). We were glad to be on a mooring rather than at anchor as the savage gusts hit the boat. After breakfast we donned our wet weather gear and loaded the dinghy onboard and then headed back towards the Acheron Passage.
It was a day of waterfalls – everywhere another one each one more spectacular, dropping into space or cascading down rocks.
We couldn’t see much on the way down the start of the passage as thick mist and rain kept obscuring everything within a mile radius of us. Fine time to find the radar has packed up. We saw a cruise ship the other day and visions of another one appearing out of the murk kept us alert but as we got near the half way mark of the passage the cloud started to lift and scraps of blue sky appeared. The Acheron Passage between the mainland and Resolution Island
Wet Jacket Arm, so named by Capt Cook as Lieutenant Pickersgill was caught in some inclement weather while out investigating, is situated half way up the Acheron Passage. We went to investigate a small anchorage at the junction between Acheron and Wet Jacket Arm and found Dingo at anchor there. After a chat we dropped our anchor and they left to continue up the arm. The sun had appeared, the wind dropped and it was absolutely glorious in this secluded spot between two islands (apart from the sandflies which were probably the worst we have encountered). We got all the wet clothing from our walk out to wash and dry while we had some lunch and then decided to go further up the arm.
By this time the weather was fantastic and the scenery in Wet Jacket is truly spectacular with high sides along the fairly narrow sound with 100’s of waterfalls plunging out of the sheer sides. We motored slowly up one side of the sound checking the many land slips for deer. These are about the only areas that we will see deer as the forest canopy is too dense and sure enough we sighted two high up a slip but too far for a feasible shot. By the time we got to where we are anchored for the night (Oke Island) we had seen several more deer - obviously more of them in this Fiord even though there are plenty of hunters around the steepness of the terrain would make it extremely tough going for them.
What an amazing day. When we were first up tendrils of mist were rising up off the calm waters of the sound and sliding around the mountain sides. It was so calm and quiet and we saw Dingo go silently past and then disappear like a dream behind the island a distance away from us.
The day was too good to miss so we pulled up the anchor and had breakfast (big bowl of porridge) as we motored up the silent sound. At the head of this lovely sound we cut the engine and sat and marvelled at the scenery. It is impossible to describe this place, and photos do not do it justice either, not only the majesty of the hugeness of it all but also all the minute details that make it so fascinating, the rocks, shot through with streaks of white marble or granite, others that look like huge nuggets of gold, the endless reflections; the black bark of the beech trees forming skeletons against the greenery; the moss and lichens.
Eventually we had to leave this magic spot and move on.
Back into the Acheron Passage and into Breaksea Sound and found a spot to anchor in Third Cove.
Its raining again… and blowing… anyway we up anchored and decided to have a look up Broughton Arm. Very steep sides with series of peaks rising up into the mist – its amazing the difference in mood and atmosphere between one day to the next – sun to grey overcast.
At the head of the arm we caught up with Dingo again and rafted up alongside them. It was pouring with rain and they invited us over for a cup of tea. Several hours later after tea and a couple of bottles of red wine we retired for the night.
It was a cold night and we weren’t at all surprised this morning to find that several of the high peaks around us had a decent coating of snow. Winter has arrived.
The end of this arm is quite spectacular with these sheer cliffs all around us. Yesterday between breaks in the rain we were entranced by the number of waterfalls dropping down dizzying heights all around us. In a quick count I saw fifteen around us. This morning now the rain has gone the falls have all but disappeared.
The Maggie Rose, a large aluminium boat from Nelson arrived in the bay to drop off a load of hunters. We decided that it was a better idea to stay warm in bed than go bashing through wet bush.
Around 10 we made a move – the sun was out and the scenery spectacular, snow still dusted the peaks, particularly Mt Crowfoot around 1600m high.
Fishing was on the agenda for the day and after trying a couple of spots we hit the right spot. Today was my turn for catching fish which has to be a first – I kept pulling up big blue cod but Pete wasn’t getting any which didn’t seem to amuse him much! We got our six for the day and continued up Vancouver Arm and found a sheltered bay for the night. Once we had the anchor set and the stern line around a convenient tree we went and gathered mussels off a rock nearby.
Rained most of today but we had a busy day. Pete smoked the fish that we caught yesterday having prepared it yesterday with salt and brown sugar. The other thing we have found is quite good smoked is whole bulbs of garlic. I made bread and steamed all the mussels and pickled them in vinegar. We also smoked a few of the mussels. So we are now feeling very self sufficient and pleased with ourselves!!
The forecast has not been too good for the coast and we are waiting for a break to get up to the next sound, Doubtful Sound, but there are a series of fronts coming through not quite far enough apart to allow the large swells to abate. At this stage it may be Tuesday.
Daylight saving has ended today. This has not improved the weather though which has really closed in with cloud down low on the fiord sides and steady fine rain. There has been no break in the rain for over 24 hours and the waterfalls we can see from the boat are spectacular. Because of the huge rainfall the upper surface of most of the inner fiords are fresh water down to a depth of a metre or so. This fresh water layer appears to move with the tides to a greater extent than the underlying salt water. Consequently any debris and leaves on the surface flow down the fiord with the tides whilst the stuff in the salt water stays still. Even in bright sunlight the surface of the water appears black but visibility can be great down 6 – 8 metres deep. To be able to catch big blue cod, over 500mm long, 15 miles up a fiord is pretty terrific. The catch limit for the inner fiords is 3 cod per person whilst the outer fiord limit is 20 with a minimum size of 33mm. One can’t help thinking how lucky we are to be eating huge servings of blue cod considering the retail price in Auckland Stewart Island has made us a bit nervous as Great Whites are often seen around this area.
This morning it stopped raining for a while and there was even sunshine. This was cause for excitement and it was definitely time to make a move before we grew into place here. The top of Vancouver Arm was similar to Broughton Arm with a basin at the end surrounded by steep sided peaks dropping water from dizzying heights.
Showers still came and went and at times it felt like we were in a black and white world, all colour gone just white clouds and mist and the layers of hills in varying tones of blacks and greys.
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On the way a small runabout boat came by. The two men had stopped by a couple of days before to say hello. They were hunting and staying on one of the barges moored in the area that have accommodation. As we saw them coming closer we could see that their hunting had been successful by the haunches of meat hanging from every corner of the boat. They pulled alongside and handed over a hunk of raw meat. It was the back steaks of a deer, still warm and I swear just about still throbbing!
We had a laugh earlier when asked if we were hunting – Pete tells them he isn’t going out of his way to go hunting but if a convenient opportunity arose where a shot would drop a deer onto the deck of the boat from a hill above or a convenient beach that would be his idea of hunting. Yeah said the one hunter, you occasionally get the drive bys…
We headed down the main sound to the Harbour Islands Beach Harbour
We had some breakfast and then decided, seeing as the day was looking pretty good but the forecast was not going to improve and in fact deteriorate through till at least Friday, that we would give it a go to get up the coast to Doubtful Sound. We put the dinghy on board and waved goodbye to Dingo who were also heading out. After tying everything down we went round to Sunday Cove where there is a barge and filled up with water before heading for the open sea.
Out past Breaksea Island
Three and a half hours later we reached the Hares Ears, a small rocky island at the entrance to Doubtful Sound. By this time the wind had increased from the 10-15 we had at the outset to around 20-25 and the sea had risen with it and the waves that were crashing onto the Hares Ears made a spectacular sight particularly when we saw a crayfisher boat that was working close into the rocks of this island. We would lose sight of him altogether as the swells rolled in and then catch a glimpse as he made the boat dance in and out of the rocks to drop or retrieve pots in the seething water. These fishermen have to be admired for being pretty damn tough.
Heading down the Sound past Bauza Island
Doubtful Sound was named by Captain Cook when he sighted it in 1770 but didn’t enter as he was doubtful that they would be able to sail out of the entrance without an easterly wind. The Spanish names in the area come from a Spanish expedition that mapped some of the sound in 1793.
This sound is the second longest at 22 miles long and the deepest with sections dropping to over 420 metres.
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